**8Shark repellent spray provided by Barry Mcgee....
***Oh yeah, waves were uncrowded too. Welcome to the gladiator pit.
***Well if you surf and you live in California, than you should be surfed out. Considering last year was deadset shit surf, this winter has been on fire for months straight. Been all around this great state, snagged some tubes, big waves, perfect points, secret spots, crowded nightmares and finally ended up back at home surfing the swamp. David Gray snapped these shots 2 days ago, I was riding a Mandala bio-foam quad and had a blast. Damn surfing is so fun.
Enjoy your surroundings, Chris 111